Sukhotai the first Thai state

About Sukhothai

Sukhothai was the capital of Thailand’s first independent kingdom (13th–15th centuries) and the first capital of Siam. Today, it is both a city and a province in northern Thailand, best known for Sukhothai Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with ancient temple ruins and Buddha statues.

The name Sukhothai means “Dawn of Happiness.” It is considered the birthplace of Thai civilization, where the Thai alphabet was developed and Theravada Buddhism flourished.

Key Facts

• History: Sukhothai was the capital of the first independent Thai kingdom, which flourished during the 13th and 14th centuries, reaching its golden age under King Ramkhamhaeng.
• Historical Park: The park preserves the extensive ruins of the ancient capital, showcasing early Thai architecture, stupas, mandapas, and countless Buddha images.
• Significance: The Thai alphabet was created here, and many of Thailand’s political and religious foundations were established before the kingdom was eventually absorbed by Ayutthaya.
• Today: Sukhothai is a popular tourist destination, offering visitors the chance to explore the birthplace of Thailand while cycling among centuries-old ruins.

Sukhothai remains one of Thailand’s most culturally and historically significant destinations, often referred to as the birthplace of the “Dawn of Happiness.”

Source: Google

Introduction

I arrived in Sukhothai after a 7-hour minibus ride followed by about 45 minutes traveling by tuk-tuk, paying 650 THB for the trip to Sukhothai plus the tuk-tuk fare. Naturally, this included getting to the old town – Sukhothai Historical Park – where I had planned to stay.

Things started off with an interesting twist: my hosts somehow hadn’t sorted out my reservation (or at least that’s what they told me), so I spent my first evening in a very traditional old wooden hut…

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Accomodations List

Grandma’s Hut

…The hut was managed by an elderly lady who, from what she explained, rented out part of her property to guests. Her entire family lived on the grounds, so it was a peaceful, quiet place rather than somewhere for parties. One major advantage was its location – very close to the old town. Wat Mahathat was only about a 15-minute walk away. The place is located here.Grandma’s Hut

Baandin Resort

My actual accommodation was Baandin Resort, where my hosts drove me the following morning from Grandma’s Hut. Fortunately, it turned out to be an excellent choice. It was still close to the old town but offered far more space and comfort.

The hosts were incredibly helpful. Daily housekeeping, complimentary coffee, tea, and drinking water, plus assistance with arranging a bicycle and scooter rental made my stay much easier.

I paid around 300 THB per day for a scooter, renting it from one of the owner’s friends. She picked me up and took me to her rental shop, located about 2 km away in the center of the historical district.

Baandin Resort Gallery

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Sukhothai Photo Gallery

In the end, I spent more than a week in Sukhothai, so I had plenty of time to explore-mostly by scooter. I mostly relied on instinct while exploring, although without Google Maps it would have been difficult to find my way back. Some destinations were over an hour away by scooter.

My main interest was visiting temples. Since many of them are spread far apart, a scooter is by far the easiest way to get around. The most popular temples, located inside the historical park walls, can easily be visited on foot or by bicycle. However, if you want to reach places like the Saritphong Dam or Wat Tham Phra Mae Ya, a scooter is highly recommended.

I rented my scooter from a wonderful lady whose phone number I still have. Unfortunately, I can’t find her rental shop on Google Maps. The cost was 300 THB per day.

Gallery Highlights

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The historical park templest are amazing, the park also hosts a lovely evening market near one of the moat-surrounded temples. After buying food, everyone could sit beside the water and quietly enjoy dinner with their family. It was a wonderfully relaxing experience.

The Haunted Place in Sukhothai

It turned out that one of the places I visited is supposedly haunted, so I’ve included a few extra photos. On Google Maps you’ll find it under the Thai name: วัดเขาโชคชะนาง (วัดหลวงพ่อสายัณห์). According to translations from this article: https://www.amarintv.com/news/crime/48436 -there is allegedly the grave of a pregnant woman near the temple, and someone reportedly hanged themselves there more than 30 years ago. According to local legend, the hidden city of Muang Lab Lae lies at the foot of the mountain.

“As for the rumors of hauntings, it’s probably because a pregnant woman’s body is buried near the abandoned temple. A sorcerer once tried to obtain love potions there but failed. There was also a woman who hanged herself at the temple entrance; that was my sister, but that was a long time ago, over 30 years ago. Others are afraid, but I’ve never encountered anything. However, the legend of the hidden city (Muang Lab Lae) is real, located at the foot of the mountain.”

That said, beneath the giant Buddha statue there’s an inscription (in Thai) stating that everyone who climbs up receives the Buddha’s blessing through a venerable monk.

Gallery

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Muay Thai in Sukhothai

It wouldn’t be a proper trip for me if I hadn’t trained Muay Thai. By pure chance, I found a gym hidden in a small alley-and… I got thoroughly beaten. Below you’ll find a gallery and a short training video. I highly recommend this gym: https://maps.app.goo.gl/C7BxZuDjzF5J1S6q8. By the way – I trained with Master Sahachen Sonket.

Gallery – Muay Thai Sukhotai

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Muay Thai Sukhotai – training video

What to see in Sukhothai

• Wat Mahathat – The main temple featuring its iconic lotus-bud-shaped central stupa.
• Wat Phra Yun and Wat Sorasak – Notable for their stone elephant sculptures.
• Wat Si Chum – Famous for its enormous seated Buddha.
• Saritphong Dam – Beautiful scenic views.
• วัดเขาโชคชะนาง (วัดหลวงพ่อสายัณห์) – I don’t know the English name. Climbing the stairs is said to bring visitors a Buddhist blessing. However, Thai sources also describe the place as haunted, linked to a disturbing local legend. Are you brave enough to discover its story?
• Wat Tham Phra Mae Ya – An interesting temple built into the rock. From here, you can start a mountain hiking trail. The trail is poorly marked—I hiked alone for about two hours before turning back.

Most attractions charge an entrance fee of around 200 THB, plus approximately 10 THB for bringing a vehicle inside.

Note: One ticket does not grant access to every temple. Admission is divided into separate zones.

Scooter Ride Video

A video showcasing the scenery around Sukhothai while riding my scooter.

Interactive Sukhothai Map

Click the filters to display places that interest you. Hover over the map pins to see photo previews, and use the travel filters to help plan your itinerary around Sukhothai.