Nong Khiaw – trekking in the mountains of Laos

Introduction

I arrived in Nong Khiaw together with the group of female travelers I mentioned in my Luang Prabang post. We got there after a six-hour minivan ride, which was quite exhausting and an adventure in itself.

As soon as we arrived, however, we went our separate ways. I had to stay behind and work during the day, while the girls continued their journey to Muang Ngoy, which I wrote about in a separate article.

In this guide, you’ll find:

• the accommodation where we stayed,
• example prices,
• the best trekking routes and places worth visiting,
• and plenty of photos of this stunning mountain town.

Enjoy the read—and don’t forget to check out the photo gallery!

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About Nong Khiaw

Nong Khiaw (Lao: ຫນອງຂຽວ, pronounced [nɔ̌ːŋ kʰǐa̯w], also spelled Nong Kiau) is a small village in Laos’ Luang Prabang Province.

It has become one of the country’s most popular destinations thanks to its spectacular hiking trails, cycling routes, and excellent rock climbing opportunities.

In the past, the easiest way to reach Nong Khiaw was by boat from Luang Prabang or Muang Khua near the Vietnamese border. Since the construction of several dams on the Nam Ou River in 2017, however, this is no longer the primary route, and most visitors now arrive by road via Pak Mong.

One of the village’s most recognizable landmarks is the large bridge donated by China, which connects the two sides of Nong Khiaw. From the bridge, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of the Nam Ou River, surrounded by dramatic limestone cliffs, rolling hills, and towering mountains.

Source: Wikipedia

Interesting fact: Nong Khiaw was heavily bombed by the United States during the Secret War (1964–1973), leaving the village almost completely destroyed.

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Trekking in Nong Khiaw

We explored Nong Khiaw mostly on foot. The village is relatively small—you can walk from one end to the other in less than an hour.

Despite its size, there’s no shortage of things to do. The surrounding area offers three excellent trekking routes, each with completely different scenery and a unique experience.

Keep in mind that every trail requires an entrance fee, and prices may vary slightly. On average, we paid around 200,000 kip (approximately €7–8 / US$8–9) per person for each hike.

Pha Kao Viewpoint

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This trail overlooks Nong Khiaw from the south and features two viewpoints.

The first, lower viewpoint can be reached after around 45 minutes of relatively easy hiking through the forest.

The second viewpoint is much more demanding. It requires an additional 2.5-hour trek deeper into the mountains and jungle, where the terrain becomes significantly more challenging.

That said, the trail is absolutely worth the effort. It winds through dense tropical jungle, creating an incredible atmosphere while remaining fairly accessible for anyone with a reasonable level of fitness.

Although I didn’t stay at the campsite marked on the trail maps, if you’re interested in jungle camping, you can read more about that experience in my article about Muang Ngoy.

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One of the things I enjoyed most about this route is that you’re surrounded by nature almost immediately. After only a few minutes, you leave the village behind and enter the forest, spending most of the hike immersed in lush jungle.

If you love nature, this is definitely one of the most rewarding hikes in the area.

Phadeng Peak Viewpoint

Unfortunately, this is the only trail I didn’t have the chance to hike.

Nong Khiaw View point

This was my favorite hike in Nong Khiaw.

The trail leads to two viewpoints. The first can be reached in about 45 minutes, while the second takes roughly one hour to reach. Although the hike isn’t particularly long, it is physically demanding. The path climbs steeply up a rocky mountainside, making it one of the more challenging treks in the area.

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The journey itself is just as rewarding as the destination. Beautiful views accompany you almost every step of the way, and it’s impossible not to stop every now and then to admire the surrounding landscape.

Personally, I enjoyed this trek the most because of its challenging nature. The climb begins with a steep ascent, and for much of the route you’ll be making your way uphill, occasionally using ropes installed along the trail to help navigate the steeper sections.

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Along the way you’ll also pass through narrow rock passages and come across numerous wooden signs left by the locals. Besides showing the remaining hiking time, many of them include motivational messages or interesting facts about the area. I found them surprisingly charming and a nice reflection of the local spirit.

Reaching the higher viewpoint is incredibly satisfying. Once you’re at the top, it’s difficult to decide what deserves your attention first. Should you admire the endless mountain ranges stretching across the horizon? Take photos of Nong Khiaw nestled beneath you? Or simply sit down and wait for sunset?

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I couldn’t choose just one option, so I proudly struck my best “victory pose” and stayed there until the sun disappeared behind the mountains.

Restaurants in Nong Khiaw

Besides the viewpoints, one of the best things you can do is simply wander around the village and explore its hidden corners.

Multi-story restaurants, delicious local food, small family-run shops, and various local businesses can be found almost everywhere, although many are easy to miss if you’re not paying attention.

We kept returning to three places in particular: Hive Bar, Wandering Sasquatch, and Neiy Coffee & Restaurant. Each offered a completely different experience.

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• Monika: https://www.instagram.com/monica.ontheway/
• Beata: https://www.instagram.com/beata.kos.art/
• Ewa: https://www.instagram.com/ewasylwia.ka

Hive Bar

Hive Bar is the perfect place to relax, enjoy a drink, listen to reggae music, and even try dishes infused with a small amount of THC. The venue itself is surprisingly spacious and is located close to one of the viewpoints. It also offers one of the largest menus in Nong Khiaw.

One interesting detail is that the owner’s daughter is an artist. I ended up buying one of her paintings as a souvenir from Laos.

The owner himself is an incredibly charismatic and friendly person whose personality gives the place a unique atmosphere.

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Wandering Sasquatch

This was the restaurant where I ate most often. Housed inside a beautiful three-story wooden building, it offers fantastic views while enjoying breakfast or lunch.

The portions were enormous—exactly what I needed after spending entire days hiking through the surrounding mountains.

It’s one of those places you naturally want to return to, not only because of the food but also because of its relaxed and welcoming atmosphere.

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Neiy Coffee & Restaurant

Neiy Coffee & Restaurant is a cozy, beautifully decorated restaurant run by an exceptionally kind owner.

Compared to many other places in the village, the menu is slightly more refined, making it a great option if you’re looking for something a little different.

In the evenings, the decorative lights create an especially charming atmosphere.

Another advantage is its location. The restaurant sits right along the trail leading to Pha Kao Viewpoint, making it an ideal place to stop either before starting your hike or after returning from the mountains.

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Things to Do in Nong Khiaw

Walk Around the Village

As I mentioned earlier, one of the greatest pleasures in Nong Khiaw is simply wandering around and experiencing everyday life.

The Nam Ou River is constantly busy with long-tail boats, many of them surprisingly loud, while ongoing construction projects meant there were plenty of workers around during our stay.

Since Nong Khiaw is essentially a small village, you’ll encounter animals everywhere—goats, chickens, wandering dogs, and even cattle. It’s not unusual to see locals transporting livestock, sometimes even by boat.

The entire village is incredibly photogenic, and no matter where you look, there’s always something worth photographing.

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Kayaking on the Nam Ou River

Most local tour operators offer kayak rentals.

For a relatively small fee—if I remember correctly, we paid around 50 PLN for two double kayaks—we had them for the entire day, with the only requirement being that we returned before sunset.

Seeing Nong Khiaw from the river offers a completely different perspective. Just like the viewpoints high above the valley, the scenery from the water is absolutely breathtaking.

The towering limestone cliffs, peaceful river, and surrounding mountains create one of the most beautiful landscapes you’ll find anywhere in Laos.

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Explore the Caves and Museums

Within roughly 10 kilometers (6 miles) of Nong Khiaw, you’ll find several caves and small museums that are well worth visiting, especially if you’d like to better understand the country’s history.

During the 1970s, Laos was subjected to one of the heaviest bombing campaigns in history, and Nong Khiaw was among the places that suffered extensive destruction.

Today, several small museums and information boards throughout the village tell the story of that period. Visiting them gave me a much deeper appreciation of what the Lao people went through, making this one of the most meaningful experiences in the area.

Some of the caves were used as shelters during the bombing, and seeing the improvised living spaces where people once hid from air raids is both fascinating and deeply moving.

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Take a Boat to Muang Ngoy

From Nong Khiaw’s small riverside pier, you can catch a boat to the peaceful village of Muang Ngoy, which I wrote about in a separate article.

The journey itself is an attraction.

The boat ride takes around 90 minutes, offering spectacular views of the Nam Ou River and the dramatic limestone mountains that line its banks. Along the way you’ll see local fishermen going about their daily lives, water buffalo cooling off in the river, and small riverside villages that seem almost untouched by time.

If you enjoy scenic boat trips, this is an experience you definitely shouldn’t miss.

Visit the Buddhist Temple

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Almost directly opposite Wandering Sasquatch sits a small but beautiful Buddhist temple on top of a gentle hill.

Although architecturally similar to many other temples throughout Laos, its peaceful setting gives it a particularly special atmosphere.

Inside you’ll find an altar, intricate sculptures, and several interesting religious figures. One of them is Mae Thorani, the Earth Goddess in Buddhist tradition, who symbolizes purity, dignity, and protection.

It’s not a large temple, but it’s a lovely place to spend a quiet half hour away from the more popular tourist attractions.

Where to Stay in Nong Khiaw

During our stay, we chose Yensabai Bungalow River View, and I can happily recommend it.

The bungalows were reasonably priced and located in a fantastic spot overlooking both the Nam Ou River and the surrounding mountains. Every evening we watched the sunset from our terrace while listening to Lao music drifting through the village, creating one of the most relaxing atmospheres of our entire trip.

The owner, a lovely Lao woman, made us feel incredibly welcome throughout our stay.

The only downside is the noise. Since the river is constantly used by local fishermen and long-tail boats, it can get quite loud, especially during the day.

Still, the scenery more than makes up for it.

Drone Footage of Nong Khiaw

If you’d like to see Nong Khiaw from above, I’ve also recorded drone footage showcasing the village, the Nam Ou River, and the incredible limestone mountains surrounding it.

Watching the landscape from the air really highlights why Nong Khiaw is considered one of the most beautiful destinations in northern Laos.

Final Thoughts

Nong Khiaw turned out to be one of the biggest surprises of my trip through Laos.

Although it’s only a small mountain village, it offers an incredible variety of experiences. Whether you’re looking for challenging hikes, spectacular viewpoints, peaceful kayaking, fascinating history, or simply a place to slow down and enjoy life surrounded by nature, you’ll find it here.

What impressed me most wasn’t just the scenery—although it’s undoubtedly breathtaking—but also the relaxed atmosphere and the friendliness of the local people. It’s the kind of destination where you arrive planning to stay for two or three days, only to realize you could easily spend a week without getting bored.

If you’re traveling through northern Laos, I’d highly recommend adding Nong Khiaw to your itinerary. In my opinion, it’s one of those places that perfectly captures the country’s natural beauty and laid-back charm.

Interactive Map of Nong Khiaw

An interactive map of Nong Khiaw with a selection of places described in the article. Most of the links link to Google maps, one to Booking, one to YouTube.